Saturday, September 29, 2012

Bye Bye Peru, Hello Bolivia

The marathon bus trip from Puerto Maldonado to Copacabana in Bolivia took a slow 21hours. The trip included the bus getting stuck in the back road mud, mid-night stops at strange and vibrant Peruvian mountain villages, two bus transfers in Juliaca and Puna and a gain in altitude of around 3500m.
Bye Bye Peru
When we eventually arrived in Bolivia after our Peruvian exit stamps, we ran into customs trouble. The officials at the Yunguyo border crossing had not seen a Visa issued in South Africa and took a good 45 minutes to realise that the date of issue was not, in fact, the date of validity for the Visa. After much debating, phone calls and gesticulating we breathed a sigh of relief as as entry into Bolivia was permitted. And much to Bronwyn´s disgust they didn´t even check our Yellow Fever vaccination cards!
The offending Visa!
Our bus driver looked very happy to see us back on board and we thought the other passengers where going to burst into applause after the delay. A short trip later we found ourselves in the town of Copacabana. Bronwyn just about kissed the ground after braving the 21 hours of motion sickness and swore never to climb on a bus again!
Views Of Lago Titicaca from the bus.


Copocabana is a quaint lakeside town that serves as the entry and exit for the Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna. While it doesn´t have very much to offer itself - the restaurants are pretty standard (apart from the very relaxed El Condor Coffee Shop which boasted fresh milk and the best chocolate cake on the continent) and all serve rice and trout for lunch and supper while the artisan shops all sport the same merchandise - it gave us a couple of days to acclimatise to the altitude (Lago Titicaca sits at a staggering 3800m, it is the highest navigable lake in the world) and to catch up with the long overdue blog.




Copacabana from the top of the hill.
 









Thursday, September 27, 2012

Amazing Amazon

The Amazon is vast, green and full of things that want to bite you. So armed with several bottles of Deet and an adventurous spirit we headed up the Rio Tambopata from Puerto Maldonado into the Peruvian Amazon.  Our destination was the Inotawa Eco Lodge that lay nestled in the buffer zone of the Tambopata National Park.

What struck us on our boat trip up river was the intensity of green that lined the banks. It was difficult to make out the individual pieces of vegetation that made up the imposing barrier of trees and vines. And then the noises - neither of us will ever forget the intensity of the daytime sounds that demanded the attention of the senses. Whether it was the distant, morbid drone of the howler monkeys, the water droplet imitating Oropendula bird or just the constant whine and hum of the insects, it never ever abated.

It´s a noise that we will miss.

Our guide for the week was a jolly jungle-bred Peruvian named Paul. He has the most amazing jungle knowledge and seemed to to be able spot game and birds that we had no idea where around. When he wasn´t finding us strange animals and insects, he was showing us a variety of trees and plants that held different uses.  The jungle is not like bushveld - game is extremely well hidden and often it was just with fleeting glimpses that we where able to see and identify animals and birds. But we still got our fair share of sightings in, even if we didn´t get the photos!

The parakeets, parrots and macaws were a highlight. These noisy, brightly feathered birds were simple stunning. What an experience to see these pet shop favourites in their natural environments.

The most exciting spot of trip were two families of Giant Otters. These endangered mammals grow to over two meters long and are on the endangered species list.

Whether it was hunting Caimans at night, spotting tree dwelling marsupials, waiting quietly at the bird hides, enjoying the playful calls of giant otters or just absorbing as much of Paul´s jungle knowledge as possible; we had the most exceptional time.

The lodge was simple, eco-friendly and manned by a helpful and friendly staff and they did everything to make our stay as comfortable as possible.

Big teeth for a small fish! These guys chomped through about 300grams of steak in about 3 minutes.
























Dragon´s Blood Tree: The locals slash the tree and correct the thick crimson sap that oozes out of the wounds. The sap is used for medicinal purposes such as anti inflammatory and we put it on our many bites. When you rub the sap vigorously it becomes  creamy white in consistency.


Dragon Tree Canopy



Bronwyn´s monkey

The next few photo´s are all the creepy crawlies that come out at night.

Chicken Spider: named because the young follow after their mother much like baby chicks. Just not as cute and fluffy! Unlike Tarantulas, that live in trees, these guys live in the ground.

The highly venomous heart spider




Our private river beach

Photographing butterflies: Trickier than it looks!














The vines in the jungle were incredible and looked like tree trunks themselves.



Affectionaty named by the locals as ël GRINGO. The gringo tree sweats constantly and when exposed to the sun turns red/pom pink and peels. hysterical!

A Brazil Nut in the forest that had been opened by a local. Fred and I snacked on these fresh delicious nuts throughout our stay in the jungle.

Hot Lips

A spider snacking on frogs eggs.

A venomous frog.

This photo is very blurry but our proof that we were incredibly lucky and sighted the very endangered giant river otter. Yay! They made the most incredible sounds similar to that of the dolphin.





 





A silly Caiman that spent the good part of 10 minutes chasing one of  Fred´s flies across the lake.